Nagigia Island: Home of the Crowd-Free Wave

Published Winter 2004, Surf Life for Women magazine.  Click here for digital photo

Arriving at the outer island airport that reminded me of a Mexican bus station, we were met on the runway by a slender Fijian man wearing an easy smile who knew us by name and beckoned us with the words, “Come, now I will take you to Nagigia.” My husband and I had traveled to the Fiji islands hoping to surf the warm, clear water in a lineup of beautiful, uncrowded waves.  Being budget-conscious travelers, we wanted to find an affordable place to relax between sessions and had stumbled upon Nagigia, a tiny island resort located in an otherwise undeveloped region of Fiji.  

Ratu, our guide, led us to the white sandy beach where we waded through 80 degree water to Fiji’s first choice for taxis, a small open boat with a powerful motor.  The heavily weathered face of our driver stretched into a smile as he fired up the engine and steered us carefully through the coral into the clear blue bay.   As we rounded the west end of Kadavu, our destination greeted us across a turquoise lagoon, silhouetted with palm trees and rocky outcroppings against a cerulean sky.  We slowed down for the shallow approach to hear the sounds of voices and music floating across the water.  I looked to Ratu for an explanation.  “They are singing,” he said shyly, smiling. “They are singing for you.”  

As we drifted to the dock, a song ringing in full harmony, we disembarked to vigorous hand-shaking and enthusiastic introductions from the smiling Fijian staff.   The sweet sounds from our serenade slowly faded as we were shown to our bure, a one room bungalow located perfectly on the edge of a tranquil lagoon.  Feeling hot and salty from our travels, we grabbed our snorkel gear and headed out to explore the translucent water.

Nagigia Island sits roughly 100 miles south of Nadi and can be reached only after combining hops by plane and boat.  Most surfers come to ride their most consistent wave, King Kong Left, an intermediate to advanced reef break with a steep drop that works best during a southeast swell.  There are six other waves to choose from at Nagigia, some serve as an alternative during strong winds, a few are even considered beginner friendly.

The next morning, a group of us eagerly gathered on the main deck to peer at King Kong Left through binoculars, evaluate the conditions and plan our day.  Increasing swell and non-existent wind had created another perfect day of surf.  Every break seemed to be working.  For a moment, we discussed heading to Uatotoka, a zippy right-hand wave with a stunning beach and pristine snorkeling.  All of us were too trigger-happy to sit through the 45 minute boat ride to get there, however, so the 10 or so of us scarfed a quick bowl of cereal and a bite of papaya and dispersed to gather our gear.  Moments later, we stood anxiously waiting at the dock with our boards waxed, sunscreen slathered and reef booties tightly secured.

King Kong Left was pumping with overhead, clean, silky faces.  The boat paused at the deep-water anchor long enough for a few surfers to jump out.   After watching the steep pit and hearing the heavy crack and boom of the wave’s pitching lip, I quickly concluded King Kong Left held little appeal for me or my longboard.  Instead, I stayed in the boat with the group headed towards Daku, an area close by with a gorgeous white sand beach and a forgiving, slow folding peak.

For the next several hours I surfed heavenly, clear blue waves in the company of my newfound faction of longboarders (all 3 of us), my only complaint being that the waves only reached waist high.  But after catching wave after gentle, peeling wave, my grin spread from ear to ear.

Back at the resort later that afternoon, all of us stoked and showing Kahuna-sized smiles, we traded stories from our experiences.  My husband’s words captured how all of us felt, “I’ve never seen waves that glassy...I probably caught the best waves of my life today”.  With nine more days ahead of us, we could hardly believe our luck at stumbling on such a paradise.

Sadly, the weather turned stormy the next morning, as is expected during the South Pacific’s winter months.  With more time on our hands, we were then able to fully appreciate the fabulous food prepared by the resort’s cheerful kitchen staff.  Breakfast is self-serve cereal and fruit or ordered menu-style, while lunch and dinner are preset.  Courses come with soup, heavenly homemade bread, an entrée of usually chicken or fish with salad or local vegetables followed by dessert.   I discovered a certain weakness for cassava pie, a tasty traditional treat drizzled with a raspberry dessert sauce.

The sun made brief appearances in-between the raging storms that cycled through the tropics that week, allowing us to make visits to the local village across the lagoon and stroll along the many trackless beaches. When the conditions allowed, we hailed a boat to surf Namo beach, an area protected from the winter winds.  Being the only two people there, my husband and I enjoyed trading waves and nibbling on fresh coconut while we lounged on the pale sandy shore.   Apparently the best time to visit Nagigia is May and November, when the winds stay calm and rain is rare.  Although disappointed with the turn of the weather, our days of beachcombing, hiking, and lounging island-style intermixed with a few days of good surf made the trip worthwhile.  

Gathering on the dock for our departure, we were hugged and helped down to the boat by our smiling Fijian hosts.  With our promises to visit again someday expressed with earnest, the group began to sing, wishing us safe voyage with their words.  Pushing off from the dock, we waved to our caretakers until they were lost from sight, the big blue ocean taking us away into the windy sunshine.
 

----SIDEBAR-----

Check out Nagigia's “wave of the day” photos at www.fijisurf.com.  A private bure costs $100 per night and the meals are an additional $26 per person.  Solo visitors can share a bure for $77 per night or sleep in the King Kong Dormitory for $57 per night.  The $20 surf transfers per day are unlimited, allowing you to keep your day’s plans flexible.  Recently Nagigia Island Resort added a high-speed internet system, giving them the fastest connection in Fiji with online booking service possible within 4-6 weeks.