Surf Lessons from Captain Aloha                                              

by Amy Waeschle for the Seattle Times travel section, December 21, 2003

“Paddle hard, Amy!”  The hissing wave rises up behind me “Paddle!” demands the deep voice as I strain my wave-battered, aching muscles for strength.   From the surf guru who’s adopted me as his project du jour I hear, “Not so hard, now, Amy!” as the wave begins to break with me in it.  From his thick rasta-Hawaiian accent my name sounds like “Emmie” and its “eeee” is the last thing I hear before I’m pitched into a disorienting twirl that rearranges my bikini and leaves me gasping for air.  Surfacing from Maytag-land I wipe the stinging salt from my eyes in time to gather my surf tutor’s latest tidbit, “As soon as you stand up you must turn”, his smile brighter than anything I could expect from a wrinkled face with no front teeth.  Nodding, I mentally file away his wisdom under, “Surfing- How To”. His help couldn’t come at a more critical moment.  After surfing various breaks with little trouble, yesterday came as a shock:  nose-diving, hitting the reef, dropping in too early, standing up too late.  Hopefully a little Aloha from Hanalei Bay’s gentle rollers will put me back on track before my plane whisks me back to the mainland tomorrow.

From the shallows I turn my board around, flop onto its grippy surface and paddle out, making my way over incoming waves with determined strokes, my eyes glued to the horizon.  Once outside, I see my long-haired mentor grin and nod vigorously as he sees me get into position to take the second wave of an approaching set.  This time I paddle a little towards my right to meet its peak and stand up as soon as I feel the wave’s upward pull.  The wave’s steepening curl rattles my balance and I fall into its swirling turbulence, fighting through stinging bubbles to the surface.  Breathless, I gather my board and paddle back out, confused.  Rasta man, still smiling, catches my eye and shouts over the wave tops, “When you stand up you cannot stand so straight – you fall over, eh?” I nod my head vigorously.  “Bend the knees, OK?” adds my coach, patting his own for emphasis. 

In one smooth motion Rasta spins, lowers onto his board and with exactly 3 easy-looking strokes he stands, turns toe-side and rides the peeling wave all the way to the beach.  I can’t help but feel a twinge of despair when he steps up onto the pale sand with his board tucked under his arm.  I’ve almost given up on myself when I spy the perfect wave.  Anxious about what could go wrong, I decide to give it one last try and while paddling frantically, I hear Rasta man’s “Patt-ull, Emmie!” encouragement from the beach.   Sneaking one last peek at the rise over my shoulder, I bob upwards with the wave and hear, “Not so hard, now, Emmie!” from the excited voice, followed by, “Stend Up!....Stend up, Emmie!”  Jumping to my feet, knees bent this time I land a little late, but recover quickly enough to squeak in my turn and soon I’m sailing in an effortless glide, the glassy blue of a tropical wave peeling at my heels.  My eyes are shining with joy by the time the wave loses its bite and I splash down off of my board and look towards my surf guru, whose toothless smile I return with bubbling laughter. 

I undo my leash and wrap it around my board, savoring the heat from the sun baked sand under my wet feet.  Wishing I could stay longer won’t make it happen, so I try to shake my blues by squinting at the backlit bay to find my coach.  With wisdom that passed into me like smoke from a genie’s bottle, I wouldn’t be surprised if he’d vanished; a figment of my imagination or possibly some kind of spirit.  But I spot him back in the lineup alongside a new protégée, laughing, gesturing wildly with his hands.  Satisfied, I give the beach one more flash of my smile before starting my upward trudge, surf board snug at my side and the genuine meaning of Aloha truly understood. 

By Amy Waeschle (360) 708-0075 amywaeschle@comcast.net, www.amywaeschle.com