Surfing the Wild Wenatchee

By Amy Waeschle

For the Bellingham Herald, Friday May 21, 2004

            As winter fades and the frozen passes thaw, white water kayakers all over the region get twitchy with excitement.  East of the Cascades between the German hamlet of Leavenworth and the apple capitol of Cashmere , a stretch of the Wenatchee River beckons.  The Wenatchee offers some of the region’s best play waves and constant white water.  The steady supply of snowmelt makes the Wenatchee at its best between early May and late June.  “You can run it other times of the year, too, like in the fall, but the springtime is the best,” says Katie McLean, an avid kayaker from West Seattle .  “It’s great because you can leave Seattle in the rain and come over here and it’s sunny.”  Each year, Katie and her friends, all experienced kayakers, carpool over the mountains for the annual spring Wenatchee run.  “It’s really fun to meet up with everyone and just spend the day playing on the river.”

            Because of its popularity and short season, the Wenatchee gets jam-packed with kayaks and rafts, especially on weekends.  Most boaters prefer to run the Wenatchee above 10,000 cubic feet per second (cfs) but it can be run as low as 3,000.  When the run is “in”, parking lots along the river are packed with cars, vans and trucks topped with kayak roof racks and rocket boxes full of extra gear.  A constant stream of brightly dressed kayakers scramble to and from the river.  “It’s like a big reunion each spring,” says Kate Whitman, a Wenatchee devotee from North Bend .  “I get to catch up with friends I haven’t seen since last season.”

You would think that the crowds might make people tense, but not so.  “That’s the great thing about kayaking, everybody’s cool,” says Kristin Porritt.  Kristin started paddling a few years ago.  This was her first trip down the Wenatchee .  “It was so fun!  The waves were really forgiving and the people are great.  Everybody you meet is smiling.”  It’s true.  There was plenty of happiness to go around.  As each kayaker surfed, the others waiting in the eddies cheered and hollered in enthusiasm. 

            Kayakers “play” by putting themselves into breaking waves or holes formed by water moving over a submerged rock or ledge.  By facing upstream and paddling forward, kayakers “surf” down the face of a wave.  By maneuvering their boats side to side or spinning, they can “balance” on the wave for minutes on end, gliding along in place while the river rushes by.  “It takes a little practice, but once you do it, there’s nothing better,” says Kristin.  The only downfall to surfing is when kayakers accidentally get flipped.  Kayakers can right themselves using a “combat roll”, but if they can’t roll, they must “wet exit”, then swim to shore or be rescued by another kayaker.  Another rescuer will usually go after the boat and tow it to shore.  “People usually don’t swim, but it happens,” says Katie, “it’s just part of kayaking.”  Kristin warns, “If you surf just make sure you know what’s downstream!”  

Hers is good advice.  It’s important to know the river and the obstacles that wait below surf spots.  Not all holes and waves are “friendly” and a few are downright dangerous.  Nancy O’Connor recalls a bad experience in a hole below Snowblind (a class III rapid towards the end of the run).  “It was my first time on the Wenatchee and I didn’t know the right line.  The hole was impossible to see until it was too late.  I went right into it.  Next thing I know I was ripped out of my boat and shoved underwater.  I remember looking up at the surface and thinking, wow, am I going to drown?”

Fortunately not all of the Wenatchee ’s waves carry such dire consequences.  Below “Rock n Roll”, the first rapid, is “Happy Wave”, a fun place to surf when the water levels are low.  It’s Connie Braat’s favorite.  “Happy wave is cushy and mellow and easy to get into.”  Rodeo Hole follows a few miles downstream and works best above 10,000 cfs.  Rodeo sits against a sloping rock ledge and is one of the river’s best known play spots.  Spectators commonly perch here to ooh and ahh over the kayakers spinning and skimming below them.  They even hold “playboating” competitions here, called rodeos (hence the name). 

After Rodeo Hole is Drunkard’s Drop, a class III rapid with big, rolling waves.  Above 10,000 cfs, a surf wave called Trinity appears mid-rapid on river left.  Turkey Shot, the next wave, is a favorite among kayakers for its gentle slope and easy access via a tranquil eddy pool.  “Turkey Shot is nice because you don’t have to get psyched up for it.  It’s not a scary wave and there’s nothing to worry about downstream of it,” says Sandy Maunz.  “It’s a perfect place to do spins.”  Kristin agrees.  “It’s really gentle.  If you’ve never surfed before, it’s a good spot to try it.”  The last rapid, called “Granny’s” offers a steep, fast wave popular with more experienced kayakers.  “It’ll flip you in a heartbeat if you’re not paying attention,” chuckles Katie.  “It’s a little intimidating when you first see it but once you get on, it’s super fun.”  Katie’s friend Lisa Farin adds, “It’s a big wave but it’s really smooth.  It was awesome today.”  Downstream of Granny’s is Suffocator, a large hole that can build an extremely powerful hydraulic.  “I hit Suffocator once and it pinned me under the water for a while,” Connie recalls.  “It was pretty scary.” 

Playboating is not for everyone.  Neither is running the Wenatchee .  Kayakers attempting the run must possess class III boat handling skills and should have a solid combat roll.  There are places for beginners to try surfing, but they should travel with partners willing to watch over them and their gear in case they end up swimming.  “That’s why I always try to get a group together,” says Katie, “You just have a bigger safety net.”  Nancy O’Connor agrees.  “It gives you confidence to know your friends are watching out for you.  Plus, it’s more fun to go in a group.” 

At the river park in Cashmere that marks the end of the run, multi-colored kayaks and wet paddling gear lay strewn about the grassy lawn while paddlers lounge in the sun.  An air of contentment permeates the scene.  Frisbees fly and stories are told, food is shared and laughter spreads from group to group.  With the promise of summer, perfect play waves, and sunshine, the Wenatchee brings people together.  “That was so fun!”  Kristin says happily.  “I’ll definitely be back!”

[SIDEBAR]

If you’ve never kayaked the Wenatchee , it’s a good idea to go with someone with experience on the run.  For river level information and valuable details about the rapids and waves, go to www.americanwhitewater.org/rivers/state/WA/.com/washington.htm and click on the Wenatchee link.

If you are looking to improve your skills or get into playboating, Fluid Adventures, a kayak school based in Leavenworth and Tacoma teaches clinics on the Wenatchee .  They also offer complete learn-to-kayak packages.  For details, go to www.fluidadventures.com

Leavenworth provides the best camping and lodging options.  For a wide assortment of camp sites, drive up Icicle creek road (your first turn off highway 2 from Steven’s Pass as you enter Leavenworth ).  During the spring boating season, campsites fill fast, so snag a site early. 

There’s no shortage of restaurants and cafes in Leavenworth .  Weekend nights Gustav’s pub fills with hungry kayakers and offers great burgers, bratwurst sandwiches and huge baskets of crispy french fries.  For breakfast, visit Home Fires Bakery up Icicle Creek road, where they bake delicious treats and hearty bread in a German masonry oven.  Sit outside and enjoy the mountain scenery and sunshine while you munch.